Sorry for the lack of updates. Things have been kind of, um, hectic here. I'm heading on vacation in a few days--Senegal and The Gambia--and the new trainees are coming to Rosso tomorrow, so don't expect to hear from me for a few weeks. I also moved and no longer have the internet in my apartment.
I still miss you all and hope that you're enjoying your summers. I'll post more--including pictures--when I get back from the beach.
In the meantime, you should read this lovely article about my favorite, and definitely most used, word in the Islamic lexicon: With a Word, Egyptians Leave It All to Fate.
6.20.2008
5.18.2008
Yes, we still watch BSG here
So...this week's (last week's?) Battlestar Galactica was simply amazing. Like, seriously excellent.
5.17.2008
mauritanian goat bbq
during a teachers' strike a few weeks ago, some of us PCVs decided to buy a goat. here's the story:
edited by me and nick. we rule like that.
edited by me and nick. we rule like that.
5.07.2008
4.28.2008
So about that food crisis...
From the WaPo, here's an interesting article on the global food crisis in Mauritania: Where Every Meal is a Sacrifice for Mauritania's Destitute.
Hunger in Mauritania will reach record highs in 2008. Recently, one of my friends in the States asked me if I had seen the effects of the food shortage in Mauritania firsthand. I thought for a minute before giving her my honest answer: No. Yes, rice, oil, and fish are more expensive. Yes, people are talking about it. Yes, there has even been some rioting. But I haven't seen the effects, and I probably never will. That's not to say that I don't think this is a huge problem--it obviously is--but in my particular part of the country we have farmers who produce lots of the local produce, and I'm usually with middle-class people who can afford food at all times, even with the looming crisis. I imagine, though, that things are very different outside of my limited view of Mauritania. The article above, for example, focuses on the shantytowns on the outskirts of Mauritania's capital, Nouakchott. Perhaps the most saddening, and most ironic, part of the article is near the end, when Mahmoud, a Moor, comments that even though he doesn't have access to food in Nouakchott, he at least can see it and seeing it "kind of gives [him] hope." But who, I wonder, will eat that food...?
When (some) Western people think of Africa, they think of poverty. The idea of what it means to be African--"Africanness"--is, I would argue, always (already) conflated with poverty in the Western imagination. But when you actually live in Africa, something that stands out are the distinct class divisions: divisions that, here, hinder on the supposedly "extinct" racial and caste distinctions of the not-so-recent past. I'm not trying to say anything particularly lofty, but I do think is important to recognize is that not all Africans are poor, and that people interact with these economic crises in different ways. Will everyone in Mauritania starve because of the food shortage? No, absolutely not. But for rural, traditionally poor, formerly enslaved people, the crisis will be much, much more devastating.
As I write this, I'm reminded of a quote by some feminist theorist, but I can't remember who--Spivak or Mohanty, I think (and yes, I tried, but couldn't find anything): There's a first world in the third, and a third world in the first. I know the quote is a little obvious, especially now, but it's always worth pointing out that there are certainly people who are starving in the developed world at this very moment, while, at the same time, there are certainly Mauritanians who have the ability to not just eat but to eat well, while the rest of the country watches and waits for the crisis to end.
Hunger in Mauritania will reach record highs in 2008. Recently, one of my friends in the States asked me if I had seen the effects of the food shortage in Mauritania firsthand. I thought for a minute before giving her my honest answer: No. Yes, rice, oil, and fish are more expensive. Yes, people are talking about it. Yes, there has even been some rioting. But I haven't seen the effects, and I probably never will. That's not to say that I don't think this is a huge problem--it obviously is--but in my particular part of the country we have farmers who produce lots of the local produce, and I'm usually with middle-class people who can afford food at all times, even with the looming crisis. I imagine, though, that things are very different outside of my limited view of Mauritania. The article above, for example, focuses on the shantytowns on the outskirts of Mauritania's capital, Nouakchott. Perhaps the most saddening, and most ironic, part of the article is near the end, when Mahmoud, a Moor, comments that even though he doesn't have access to food in Nouakchott, he at least can see it and seeing it "kind of gives [him] hope." But who, I wonder, will eat that food...?
When (some) Western people think of Africa, they think of poverty. The idea of what it means to be African--"Africanness"--is, I would argue, always (already) conflated with poverty in the Western imagination. But when you actually live in Africa, something that stands out are the distinct class divisions: divisions that, here, hinder on the supposedly "extinct" racial and caste distinctions of the not-so-recent past. I'm not trying to say anything particularly lofty, but I do think is important to recognize is that not all Africans are poor, and that people interact with these economic crises in different ways. Will everyone in Mauritania starve because of the food shortage? No, absolutely not. But for rural, traditionally poor, formerly enslaved people, the crisis will be much, much more devastating.
As I write this, I'm reminded of a quote by some feminist theorist, but I can't remember who--Spivak or Mohanty, I think (and yes, I tried, but couldn't find anything): There's a first world in the third, and a third world in the first. I know the quote is a little obvious, especially now, but it's always worth pointing out that there are certainly people who are starving in the developed world at this very moment, while, at the same time, there are certainly Mauritanians who have the ability to not just eat but to eat well, while the rest of the country watches and waits for the crisis to end.
4.18.2008
Some Packing Suggestions
Here are some of my suggestions. These are only suggestions, of course. Good luck.
--As for clothes, don't worry about packing too much. And don't buy ANYTHING with heavy fabrics, just stick to cottons. You'll end up buying lots of stuff here. One of my favorite things to do is have my tailors make "Western-style" stuff with local fabrics. And do bring pants, as you'll end up wearing them at site or in the capital. You can also buy pants here, but I've only had good luck with pants when I use a tailor in Nouakchott. All of those people who tell you that your head will always be covered and you'll always wear a skirt don't know what they're talking about. Yes, if you're in a conservative site, you'll be wearing that most of the time. But when you're in Nouakchott or other parts of the country, you'll definitely want to have those pants handy. And make sure you bring light materials--linen or cotton.
--Laptops: there's always some contention as to whether or not volunteers should bring laptops, but I think that if you have one, you should bring it. Just plan on buying a new one when you get back in two years. You could end up with a living situation where you have internet in your apartment (like me) or no internet even in your regional capital. But, either way, laptops are always useful for work, writing, uploading photos, watching movies, etc. Traveling with laptops can be a pain, so bring some kind of hard case for taxis. And lots of cleaning supplies.
--If you're bringing DVDs, it may be more useful to burn them into files and keep them on an external hard drive. DVDs tend to get ruined quickly here. I'm kind of embarrassed to admit that I just downloaded a copy of Windsor Pilates, but, eh, that's life I guess.
--When you pack your "Western" clothes for "going out" in Senegal, do remember that you will most likely gain or lose weight. Generally, if you have a "healthy" (think vegetarian, low-fat/low-carb) diet, you will probably gain a few pounds. If you have a normal diet (i.e. you have no problem eating cheeseburgers and probably eat more than one of them a month) you will probably lose weight. So I guess what I'm trying to say is bring stuff that will fit even with the weight fluctuations.
--Yes, bring a bathing suit. Saint Louis has beautiful beaches.
--For Stage, I suggest bringing lots of protein bars or snacks. I was hungry ALL OF THE TIME during stage
--Bring cash. Last year, I ran out of money QUICKLY during stage, as I was always buying food. It also helps to bring money so you can get heat-appropriate clothes made.
So that's all. Let me know if you have any other specific questions. Just remember that you can get most of the stuff you need in country.
--As for clothes, don't worry about packing too much. And don't buy ANYTHING with heavy fabrics, just stick to cottons. You'll end up buying lots of stuff here. One of my favorite things to do is have my tailors make "Western-style" stuff with local fabrics. And do bring pants, as you'll end up wearing them at site or in the capital. You can also buy pants here, but I've only had good luck with pants when I use a tailor in Nouakchott. All of those people who tell you that your head will always be covered and you'll always wear a skirt don't know what they're talking about. Yes, if you're in a conservative site, you'll be wearing that most of the time. But when you're in Nouakchott or other parts of the country, you'll definitely want to have those pants handy. And make sure you bring light materials--linen or cotton.
--Laptops: there's always some contention as to whether or not volunteers should bring laptops, but I think that if you have one, you should bring it. Just plan on buying a new one when you get back in two years. You could end up with a living situation where you have internet in your apartment (like me) or no internet even in your regional capital. But, either way, laptops are always useful for work, writing, uploading photos, watching movies, etc. Traveling with laptops can be a pain, so bring some kind of hard case for taxis. And lots of cleaning supplies.
--If you're bringing DVDs, it may be more useful to burn them into files and keep them on an external hard drive. DVDs tend to get ruined quickly here. I'm kind of embarrassed to admit that I just downloaded a copy of Windsor Pilates, but, eh, that's life I guess.
--When you pack your "Western" clothes for "going out" in Senegal, do remember that you will most likely gain or lose weight. Generally, if you have a "healthy" (think vegetarian, low-fat/low-carb) diet, you will probably gain a few pounds. If you have a normal diet (i.e. you have no problem eating cheeseburgers and probably eat more than one of them a month) you will probably lose weight. So I guess what I'm trying to say is bring stuff that will fit even with the weight fluctuations.
--Yes, bring a bathing suit. Saint Louis has beautiful beaches.
--For Stage, I suggest bringing lots of protein bars or snacks. I was hungry ALL OF THE TIME during stage
--Bring cash. Last year, I ran out of money QUICKLY during stage, as I was always buying food. It also helps to bring money so you can get heat-appropriate clothes made.
So that's all. Let me know if you have any other specific questions. Just remember that you can get most of the stuff you need in country.
4.04.2008
It's too *&*$(!*#& hot.
The "hot" season has officially begun in Mauritania and well...it's hot. Some days are hotter than others--on Tuesday, for example, I think the low was around 80--but, overall, it's just maddeningly, um, hot. So, how does a girl who grew up in Buffalo deal with the heat? Um, that's easy: ice.
I don't have a fridge at my apartment, so I don't really have access to cold drinks. I say "really" because most of my friends do have fridges--and hence, cold water. Nevertheless, since the heat has started most of my days somehow end up denigrating into a series of mad dashes for ice. And when I say "mad dashes," I mean mad dashes.
In Rosso, we don't have a specific place to buy things like ice (like the "ice" section of the grocery story in the States) and, most of the time, people with freezers sell ice out of their homes. So in order to find ice, you have to know which houses (and sometimes which boutiques) actually sell house. Normally I have to go from house to house to find ice--because when it's really hot, people run of out of ice fast. The thing is, when I stop at someone's house for ice, it inevitable turns into a lengthy conversation about the heat, school, our collective families, whether or not someone likes beans (this is a Pulaar/Wolof thing--trust me), whether or not my butt has gotten too big (yes, I'm serious), how my friends are doing, how my friend's friends are doing, how my parents are doing in America, who is the biggest "bandit" in my neighborhood, and/or whether or not white people can handle the heat. Sometimes I buy ice from my students, so when I'm at their houses, the conversations inevitably turn into what some Akon lyrics means or whether or not I'm going to give a test next week.
So yes, sometimes it takes me about a half-hour to find some ice. I could do what some of my Mauritanian friends do and send a kid to go and find ice for me, but I don't mind doing it myself--it's fun to talk to my neighbors. But, anyway, when I finally do get to drink some cold water, I'm easily the happiest girl in the world. Or Mauritania. Or, um, my neighborhood in Rosso.
So that is how a girl from Buffalo is (slowly) learning to deal with the heat.
I don't have a fridge at my apartment, so I don't really have access to cold drinks. I say "really" because most of my friends do have fridges--and hence, cold water. Nevertheless, since the heat has started most of my days somehow end up denigrating into a series of mad dashes for ice. And when I say "mad dashes," I mean mad dashes.
In Rosso, we don't have a specific place to buy things like ice (like the "ice" section of the grocery story in the States) and, most of the time, people with freezers sell ice out of their homes. So in order to find ice, you have to know which houses (and sometimes which boutiques) actually sell house. Normally I have to go from house to house to find ice--because when it's really hot, people run of out of ice fast. The thing is, when I stop at someone's house for ice, it inevitable turns into a lengthy conversation about the heat, school, our collective families, whether or not someone likes beans (this is a Pulaar/Wolof thing--trust me), whether or not my butt has gotten too big (yes, I'm serious), how my friends are doing, how my friend's friends are doing, how my parents are doing in America, who is the biggest "bandit" in my neighborhood, and/or whether or not white people can handle the heat. Sometimes I buy ice from my students, so when I'm at their houses, the conversations inevitably turn into what some Akon lyrics means or whether or not I'm going to give a test next week.
So yes, sometimes it takes me about a half-hour to find some ice. I could do what some of my Mauritanian friends do and send a kid to go and find ice for me, but I don't mind doing it myself--it's fun to talk to my neighbors. But, anyway, when I finally do get to drink some cold water, I'm easily the happiest girl in the world. Or Mauritania. Or, um, my neighborhood in Rosso.
So that is how a girl from Buffalo is (slowly) learning to deal with the heat.
3.24.2008
Keeping promises. One day at a time.
In attempt to update more often, I guess I'll tell you about my oh-so-exciting day in Rosso. I woke up early--although not too early, as I didn't hear the mosque at 5am--drank some wonderful coffee fresh from Bemus Point (thanks Dad!), brought my laundry to the folks who do my laundry, and read the news. Then I went to the market and bought a bunch of stuff for tonight's "Mexican Dinner" and made some salsa at my friend's house. After having lunch with my Mauritanian friends, I went back to my other friend's house and spent the ENTIRE day making food. I had some wine with dinner, hung out with friends, and, now, I'm home.
Exciting...right. But, whatever, I'm still on vacation--at least until tomorrow, when I start my lesson plans, finish unpacking, and visit a bunch of Mauritanian families (and hopefully study some Wolof and write a blog entry...oh, and maybe I'll go running).
P.S. Who in Nouakchott is reading my blog?
Update: So. The Mexican dinner was delicious--partly because of the pounds of cheese I bought in Nouakchott yesterday and partly because I make a mean salsa. Just sayin'.
Update: Okay. So here's what I made for Mexican dinner: homemade corn tortilla chips; homemade roasted tomato salsa with lots of lime and fresh parsley as a substitute for cilantro (I did manage to get my hands on some dried cilantro, though--thanks Mom); Mexican white beans with vegetables; flour tortilla shells; and, for the inside of the tortilla shells, a chicken mix with corn, green peppers, tomatoes, and onions. I think I want some for breakfast.
Exciting...right. But, whatever, I'm still on vacation--at least until tomorrow, when I start my lesson plans, finish unpacking, and visit a bunch of Mauritanian families (and hopefully study some Wolof and write a blog entry...oh, and maybe I'll go running).
P.S. Who in Nouakchott is reading my blog?
Update: So. The Mexican dinner was delicious--partly because of the pounds of cheese I bought in Nouakchott yesterday and partly because I make a mean salsa. Just sayin'.
Update: Okay. So here's what I made for Mexican dinner: homemade corn tortilla chips; homemade roasted tomato salsa with lots of lime and fresh parsley as a substitute for cilantro (I did manage to get my hands on some dried cilantro, though--thanks Mom); Mexican white beans with vegetables; flour tortilla shells; and, for the inside of the tortilla shells, a chicken mix with corn, green peppers, tomatoes, and onions. I think I want some for breakfast.
I'm back. Or at least I'll try to be back.
I just got back from a "working vacation" in the northern part of Mauritania. It was pretty and fun and relaxing, but now I have to do a bunch of work before classes start next week. I do, though, want to start updating my blog more with actual, real, written entries. Novel idea, I know. So expect pictures, writing, and whatnot in the next week. I think my "writing rut" is over. (I also want to start exercising more--god, I miss wearing my American jeans--and spending less money; we'll see how that goes.)
And to the newbies: expect a "what to pack if you're a girly-girly coffee-addict who will most likely be an urban volunteer" packing list sometime soon.
And to the newbies: expect a "what to pack if you're a girly-girly coffee-addict who will most likely be an urban volunteer" packing list sometime soon.
3.13.2008
This I believe.
We haven't had water in Rosso in over a day. And I'm uber depressed about the Elliot Spitzer thing. I need a vacation. Or someone to come and fix the goddam*ed pipes! Is it too much to ask? Running water and politicians who don't suck? Really? Rargh.
3.08.2008
2.10.2008
1.29.2008
You know what I'm sayin'?
My Mauritanian friends have been watching my copy of the first season of the Sopranos and Aicha just referred to herself as "Carmela Sy." HA!
1.11.2008
Happy Birthday Mom!
This is a little e-card I made for your birthday. Enjoy. And be sure to watch the WHOLE thing.
1.08.2008
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